Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 26, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Zone 5b
Posts: 179
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Row Covers
Hi TomatoVille!
This year I used row cover material over my single row of tomatoes, which I had planted very early through clear plastic sheeting. Through testing I learned that the sheeting increased my soil temperatures nicely, and I thought the row cover would also help keep things warmer (and protect from light frosts). What happened is that some of my leaves seemed to be rotting under the cover. I suspect it was just a few that were in contact with it. So, I removed the cover early and everything is just great. I was just wondering if you had any ideas why I had some leaf problems under it? It was standard poly-spun type row-cover stuff, and during the time it was on, it was nice sunny and dry-ish weather, as I remember. Thanks! |
May 26, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: zone 5
Posts: 821
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Huh, that's weird. I've used it for years and have never had that happen. I do try and keep it elevated off the plants a bit though. My only issue has been that it is so toasty in there that the neighborhood cats think it a great place to hang. They scare the pants off me every once in awhile when I disturb them. LOL
Stacy |
May 27, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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It's condensation. Even if the soil surface was dry, plants still release water into the air.
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May 27, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Zone 5b
Posts: 179
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Thanks guys. Funny story, Stacy. I'd probably jump 5 feet straight up in that situation.
I thought the stuff was meant to lay right on top of crops to best protect them from frost, but maybe I misunderstood the mechanics of it. I guess more cold-tolerant crops wouldn't be so quick to mold/mildew under a row cover, and perhaps with tomatoes a slightly different solution may work better. Things are still going well here, although we are just finishing up a pretty cool week. Happy growing! |
May 27, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: zone 5
Posts: 821
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I just lay it directly on plants like cukes and melons. I think my reasoning was that I wanted it tight in there to keep away the squash bugs. Makes no sense really but I haven't had mildew or mold with those plants. I keep it elevated off the tomatoes because it is so windy here I wordy about it breaking stems.
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May 27, 2013 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Natalia, TX
Posts: 143
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Growing under row covers in 140 degree heat, in the Sahara desert
Quote:
Tho the following article was made for using BioChar, the video shows them using row covers to conserve precious water. Here is a excerpt to "GREENING THE SAHARA" with Super Vegetable Gardens. and remember this is in 140 +/- degree heat during the day. Everything is in French, but you can see the row covers pulled away so you can see what they are growing, in some pictures you can see the row covers in place during the day. "The result of 15 years of research and 30 years of field experience, the Super Vegetable Gardens (SVG), is a mode of intensive and ecological cultivation that yield more than 100 tonnes of vegetables per year from a single hectare of desert soil. The SVG’s production is constant, irrespective of seasons and with a crop every 5 weeks for short cycle vegetables, it provides local families with a nutritious diet and possibly a surplus to sell." Super Potager is a Video of the same system, but also in French. Terry Layman
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May 27, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: California Central Valley
Posts: 2,543
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I wrap my tomato cages with row cover or bubble wrap or plastic, then, if the nighttime temps are still below 50F, put some plastic or row cover over the top of the cages. Usually there's at least a 6-12 inch gap below the top cover, so that the plants don't get too hot and so that there's still some air movement.
At one community garden, I planted 2-8 weeks later than several other people. Although a few of theirs had some minor protection at first, mine are the only ones still under cover. Because of the warmer soil & air temps, my tomato plants are as big as or bigger than any of my neighbors'. As an experiment, I planted without cover in mid-May at a plot in a warmer location. The plants there do need to be watered more frequently because of the drying winds. In my experience, cucurbits don't like still air or cool soil, so I plant without cover and hope for the best, or wait until June to plant them out. |
May 28, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Zone 5b
Posts: 179
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Thank you for the additional information, guys! I think I can take some info from each situation in the search for perfection.
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May 28, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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By the way, the row cover material I have seen is made of a white woven poly. I have seen it a lot on strawberries. It would breathe, unlike plastic, so condensation would be less of a problem. I don't know if you could get a woven poly that would transmit enough light to grow a tomato through fruiting, but it would work for young plants, especially to protect them from frost. Right now I am looking at buying a low tunnel bender and growing dwarfs or compact plants like Terrenzo. My high tunnel Terenzo plants are growing into the perfect size for a low tunnel.
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May 30, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Zone 5b
Posts: 179
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Thanks, Cole. Maybe I was a little confusing--I did have the woven white poly as what I called the "row cover."
The plastic sheeting is different, I have that right on the ground and the plants are growing through it. I am trying the plastic on the ground for warming, and it worked. On top of all that, I had lain the white poly cover on top of my plants, because it was going to be chilly (40's) during the night. Hope that clears up what I was trying to say. |
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