Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 31, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
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Seed saving
I've been saving seeds from my Jaune Flammes and I have a couple questions. I squeeze the seeds into a baby food jar and only add about a tablespoon or 2 of water, then I set the lid on top not all the way closed so it gets air. I swish the seeds around once a day and have noticed that no mold grows on top like instructions say should be there after 3 days. I then rinse them to get the floaters out. Am I doing it right because I thought that mold was supossed to grow on the top?
Also, I have noticed a few seeds after drying are black. Should I throw those away or are they viable? Thank you! |
May 31, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 444
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I would leave the cover off and add about enough water to fill the jar 1/2 way and not stir
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May 31, 2013 | #3 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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Quote:
Remember, the whole object of fermentation is to remove the sacs that surrounds the actual seeds. If you get the sacs off, then you've done the job and there should not be any problem with viability if the fruit was at least reasonably ripe to begin with. I save a lot of seeds and many of my jars don't grow any mold or fungus layers. Getting the layer of "beneficial" fungi helps with some of the pathogens that might be transmitted via the seed coatings. But whether or not the fungi form on top of the contents is not an indication of viability. What I have done at times is to take some of the liquid from jars that have been working for a few days and add that to jars that I am just starting. Jars started this way are more inclined to form the white layer. When you do this, just make sure you use a strainer to prevent stray seeds from finding a wrong home in the newly started jar. So, relax and keep your focus on the object of the exercise - get the seed sac off the seed.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
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May 31, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 447
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I don't cover mine and have never had problems. I never notice a smell if that's what you are worried about and why you are covering. But I do have a big, open kitchen. I also pour in enough water to be half way up the jar, and I don't stir or anything after that point. I just "set it and forget it" for about 3 days. Then I pour the mold off. And rinse the sunken seeds.
Lindsey |
May 31, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 447
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I bet you could drape a cheese cloth over top, if u really want to have them covered.
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May 31, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
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Thank you everyone for the info, I appreciate it. I cover the jar because that's what I read to do. I never noticed any smell. The seed sacs come off and as long as that is what matters I'll keep doing the same. BUT I will try without a lid and not swish them around to see if there's a difference at all. Thank you
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May 31, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
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One more thing... Is 3 days the MAX to leave them soaking?
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May 31, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Container Ted is modest. He should have linked to this, which will answer all your questions .
http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/w...g_Fermentation He is the author. Marsha |
May 31, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Floyd VA
Posts: 771
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I ferment mine outdoors in plastic cups covered loosely with a napkin and with no water added. Since I save my seeds when canning, there is always enough tomato juice available to fill the cups half way. The fermenting time depends on the temperature. In hot weather (>85F), three days is fine. If the temperature is cooler I'll go up to five days but no more.
TomNJ/VA |
June 1, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
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Thank you both for information. Me being new to all this, I just want to get it right
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June 1, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
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What a great read for us newbies! Thank you Marsha for providing the link to Teds seed saving instructions! It was just perfect, easy to follow and the pictures were great! Thank you Ted
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June 1, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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I'm happy you found it helpful. There are a lot of ways to remove the gel sac around the seeds. Take everything you find out here and elsewhere and you'll find that you will develop a little procedure that is comfortable for you. Like I said before, keep the focus on those gel sacs.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
June 1, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: chesapeake, virginia
Posts: 89
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i plan on saving seeds myself this year and i appreciate the link! thanks!
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June 1, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,971
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Dry varieties (like paste types) sometimes need extra liquid. Just adding water is not the best method. I take a large juicy tomato of any variety, sqeeze it out, strain out the seeds, and then add only the juice/gel back to the variety that had little liquid.
Dr. Lve Apple |
June 1, 2013 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,500
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Using most of the methods above if I could add at the last rinse and dump parchment paper is a sure fire way not to have any seeds stick to the paper plates.
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KURT |
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