Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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June 29, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NoVA Zone 7
Posts: 64
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Wilting, slimy leaves?
When checking my plants this morning, I noticed that my Black and Brown Boar has several sets of lower leaves where some are wilting into a slime. I immediately pulled the leaves off, took photos, and Googled like a crazy person. I have no idea what it is, but I am sure someone here does.
I have 13 tomatoes growing this year, and this is the only plant affected thus far. I have one plant growing in a smart pot, the rest are in Earthboxes with ProMix BX on an auto watering system (a God send). This in an Earthbox tomato, all of which have Garden Lime and GardenTone fertilizer per EB specs. I give all my plants Ami's Exel LG, Actinovate, and molasses concoction via foliar feed every other week or so, depending on rain. I did use the bleach spray from b54red on Thursday morning because of some signs of early blight on a few plants, but I did not spray this plant figuring I'd see the reaction of the ones I sprayed before spraying all my plants. With the exception of the wilty, slimy leaves, the Black and Brown Boar plant looks healthy. I sprayed all my plants with Ami's Exel LG/Actinovate this morning, as there has been lots of rain lately. Any thoughts? Would love to stop this madness before it gets worse, as I am so looking forward to the B&BBs. Thanks! Gussie Last edited by Gussie; June 29, 2013 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Spelling; added photos |
June 29, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Some kind of mold?
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June 29, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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It is Gray Mold. You need to stop it now or it will spread. If you are having rainy weather it will spread really fast and can pretty much defoliate a plant as well as affect the fruit if it gets bad. Black tomatoes and GWR tomatoes are especially susceptible to Gray Mold.
Bill |
June 30, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NoVA Zone 7
Posts: 64
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Looks like I have one more slimy leaf today. Just hit the BB&B and the M Peace next to it with the bleach spray. Then I turned around and did the Kellogg's Breakfast and Branywine Suddith's that are still showing signs of Early Blight. Thinking of going out to spray everything with the bleach spray, as the weather looks like rain.
How long do I have to wait to hit with the Exel LG/Actinovate? Or should I do another round of bleach spray next if it rains later today? Thanks! |
June 30, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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If it rains again then I would hit the ones with Gray Mold again with the bleach spray. It only remains of the plant for a matter of minutes at most so once the leaves are dry you can apply other products if you want.
Bill |
June 30, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NoVA Zone 7
Posts: 64
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Thanks, Bill and James. The rain this morning was fast and furious, starting about 2 minutes after i finished spraying the last of my plants with the bleach spray. Now that the rain has passed, I will hit them again tonight.
Bill, did i see that you are you using Mancozeb and Copper Fungicide to battle Grey Mold? How is it going? |
June 30, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NoVA Zone 7
Posts: 64
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Man. It rained again late this afternoon. This is getting nuts. I will hit all my plants with bleach spray momentarily if they are dry enough or wait till the AM if not. It is supposed to rain off and on through Thursday.
I have already have Mancozeb and I should have my Copper Fungicide by tomorrow evening (thanks, Amazon Prime!). Is mixing these two the best way to go now or should I go back to the Exel LG-Actinovate? |
June 30, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Montenegro
Posts: 275
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i'd mix the two, even in the middle of rain if it takes it
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July 1, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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The copper spray was only effective for me on the Gray Mold in doses so high that I got too much leaf damage from it. It caused stunting of the leaves and slowed growth almost to a halt as well as burning some of the leaves. In the lower doses it didn't slow the Gray Mold down much. I have not been able to find Mancozeb yet but I'm sure I'll find it somewhere and try it also. Daconil didn't work either. The only thing that has worked so far has been the bleach spray but it has no lasting preventative affect and with rain every day I need some kind of prevention. I'm now having the same trouble with Septoria due to these incessant showers. What would really help would be a week with no rain.
I hope you realized Paradajz meant mix the copper and Mancozeb. Don't ever mix anything other than a little soap with bleach. Bill |
July 1, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Montenegro
Posts: 275
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hi,
again a question of curiosity from my part- a substance named boscalid, not available there? |
July 1, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Ivan,
It is, but not in every state. BASF product - Pageant Intrinsic Brand Fungicide Active Ingredient: Pyraclostrobin - 12.8 % Boscalid - 25.2 % |
July 1, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Montenegro
Posts: 275
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0.15% of that + 0.25% mancozeb ( 80% substance ), twice in 10 days, single application of copper at regular dose in the middle ( on the fifth day ), usually closes even most agressive Mold issues, also prevents secondaries from ''finishing'' the plants.
not a recommendation, just a note |
July 1, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,448
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Do not use any fungicide or insecticide on any crop not specifically on the label of the product you purchase.
__________________
Blog: chriskafer.wordpress.com Ignorance more frequently begets knowledge: it is those who know little, and not those who know much, who so positively assert that this or that problem will never be solved by science. --Charles Darwin |
July 1, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Montenegro
Posts: 275
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as i said, not a recommendation, just a note
btw, SIGNUM fungicide ( as this stuff is named in Europe ) is labeled for use on tomatoes in most EU countries. |
July 1, 2013 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Excellent point Chris. The Pageant product is only approved for ornamental use.
The BASF crop product is Endura® fungicide which appears to be just Boscalid. Not sure if the Pyraclostrobin is approved for crops in the US. |
Tags |
wilt slime leaves disease |
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