Growing tomato seedlings in the heat!

August 9, 2013

Many people claim you must plant new tomato plants in July in order to attain a good crop of tomatoes in the fall. In the high summer heat of July in Texas, most of my young seedlings simply wither and die. If I delay planting until mid to late August, my plants have a much better chance of surviving the heat and producing tomatoes before the first frost in late October or early November. I planted some seedlings in mid July this year to see how they can handle the heat. I'm making sure they have sufficient moisture and I even gave them some shade cloth. Most of them still have leaves turning brown and looking like death is imminent.

I'm curious what growing tricks or methods other people use to insure their July planted seedlings survive the heat and grow into the fall.

Ted

Cheryl2017 · August 9, 2013

Hi Ted, That is my understanding also. Got to get them plants in the ground last couple weeks of july. However. August is every bit as miserable hot or worse than July for us. The only other thing I do is weekly folage feed with seaweed and molasses. Someone told me it helps with both cold and heat stress. For sure I loose more fall tomato plants then spring ones.

tlintx · August 9, 2013

My experience this year has been similar -- July plants are hanging in there but not doing much. They are reasonably tall but that's actually worse, because every foot is a cluster of fruit that isn't there. I'm thinking I'll top them mid-August in the hopes of getting some suckers going.

The seedlings I started for plant out in August were looking good until this heat spell hit. Now I'm wondering if they'll survive to plant out. I know now, next year, to plant twice as many because the attrition rate is ridiculous.

Even the cherries in the shade are looking odd -- bleached, papery edges (possible sunburn from all the watering?) and not doing much. The exception is Reisentraube. What a wonderful tomato!

Delerium · August 9, 2013

I live in Zone 9a and it can get very hot here. I planted my fall crop around June and now my plants are setting fruit. The plants are much larger now but its working out great and should produce plenty of tomatoes before our first frost. Temps have been perfect lately for tomato setting this week so i am going to take advantage of it and manually pollinate flowers.

Redbaron · August 9, 2013

Ted,
I grew a few this year not knowing if my plants would survive. My plants survived. So the seedlings are just an extra. However, I can generally sow directly in the ground for fall. I do nothing special but mulch heavily when they sprout and make sure they get shade and water. Some 15 foot sunflowers handle the shade.

b54red · August 9, 2013

I start my seed in the air conditioning and after they are potted up I wait for a nice rainy day and move them outside in partial shade for at least a week then start moving them into more direct sunlight until they get about 9 or 10 inches tall. I give them a feeding of Miracle Grow or TTF every week until they are ready to go into the garden. I also treat them with Daconil weekly and if any diseases start on them I treat them with the bleach spray. I also let them dry out pretty good once or twice while they are hardening off. It seems to increase the root ball even though they look bad when they wilt like that they usually recover quickly after a good drink. I plant them out into already watered ground that is heavily mulched with cypress mulch. If they start wilting after a day or two I will give them a cup or two of diluted Miracle Grow. It is much better to plant them very late in the day or on a rainy day when it is cooler. One thing I never do anymore is plant them deep this time of the year because it increases the chance of bacterial wilt when you plant them deep in the warm summer soil. Since I stopped planting my seedlings deeper than where they are in the cups I have cut down on my loses this time of the year by about 90%. Despite all the work my plants will still look pretty spindly and thin until the nights start cooling down a little and it is a constant battle with diseases and pests to keep them healthy until then.

Bill

hornstrider · August 9, 2013

I planted my fall plants on July 15 this year, and last year. So far I have not had any issues w/ the heat affecting my seedlings. I did do something different this year. Instead of starting my plants in the greenhouse under lights I started them outside in the garden in IHORT plugs in seed trays using sunlight for my light source. I put them out in the Texas heat to get them acclimated to the hot conditions from the get go. Also it has rained on July 15th the last two years cooling things off for 10 days or so. I believe the rain cooled things down enough for the roots to take hold. I also have a few spring plants sort of alive. I took one good stem from the mother plant, and buried the stem in amended soil w/ lots of compost next to the mother plant. That stem will grow it's own root system, and will produce a nice crop of tomato's in the fall.

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps42fc4c9e.jpg

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps370ca9b7.jpg

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps2e241a1e.jpg

decherdt · August 9, 2013

We had some good Fall tomatoes last November, so we started seeds the first weekend of June this year. Potted up to 6 inch deep 4 inch pots (P86D) the last weekend of June and straight outside to start hardening off. Gave them plenty of kelp water for growing roots. Planted July 13 in double dug holes between the Spring tom root balls, replacing the bottom scoop with 50/50 compost/black kow, leaving a basin to catch water, and covered with straw, partly under my neighbor's giant cottonwood. Have 2 ft tall plants with blooms and a few tiny fruit, with shade Noon to 4 pm. They droop a little when it gets 105F + but bounce back ok. Giving them each about half a gallon of water twice a week, so far. I think that's about 6-7 practices? to beat the heat. (Something similar plus row cover to beat the cold)

tlintx · August 11, 2013

Everybody, thanks so much for the tips! I just put up some shade and my tomatoes look better, even though it's been really hot and humid. Now I just need to remember to water frequently.

Does anyone have any more fertilizing tips for hot weather? I'm a chronic under-feeder but I don't want to go the wrong way.

b54red · August 11, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by tlintx

Everybody, thanks so much for the tips! I just put up some shade and my tomatoes look better, even though it's been really hot and humid. Now I just need to remember to water frequently.

Does anyone have any more fertilizing tips for hot weather? I'm a chronic under-feeder but I don't want to go the wrong way.

Once they are potted up and hardening off they don't have much soil in the cups to draw nutrients from so I give mine a full strength dose of Miracle Grow or Texas Tomato Food about once a week.

tlintx · August 11, 2013

Ok, dumb question time. Do you use the water soluble stuff immediately after a rainfall, in the hopes of replenishing the nutrients, or do you wait until the next regular watering? My plants look parched unless it rains, in which case they start showing deficiencies in the leaves.

hornstrider · August 11, 2013

Like I said I started the seeds in plugs outside under the light of the sun, and potted up after the show of the first set of leaves into 4 inch pots. I kept them well watered, and planted into the ground when they were only approx 5 inches tall. I watered w/ rain water, and compost tea. I amended the soil a month in advanced w/ lots of alfalfa pellets, and turkey compost. The only problem is every evening I have some minor leaf curl due to the heat I suppose......The stems are really thick, and healthy looking. I am surprised because I have never started tomato seeds in this manner before.

nolabelle · August 11, 2013

My head is reeling from all this information. Makes me wonder if I'll ever be successful with tomatoes. It all seems so complicated. My two pathetic tomato plants are barely green. I am keeping myself from yanking them up by the roots. I know they won't do anything, but we're on a first name basis, lol.

I hope to stay encouraged by hanging out here with you folks

August 11, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by nolabelle

My head is reeling from all this information. Makes me wonder if I'll ever be successful with tomatoes. It all seems so complicated. My two pathetic tomato plants are barely green. I am keeping myself from yanking them up by the roots. I know they won't do anything, but we're on a first name basis, lol.

I hope to stay encouraged by hanging out here with you folks

Don't feel bad or sad! New Orleans is the hardest place in the country to grow tomatoes. Way to much humidity and heat. Plant in February and you will have great tomatoes. I usually had tomatoes soon after Mardi Gras.

Ted

tlintx · August 12, 2013

Harder than Houston?

That's a challenge!

You need to fertilize those guys! I was afraid of over fertilizing but had to do something, started using 20-20-20 at half strength every few days and they perked right up (as in, within a few days). Still look sad and heat-stricken and bug-eaten, but not like I should yank them up immediately.

My seedlings, on the other hand, wow. Gorgeous to chewed looking overnight. I think they just hit critical mass as far as size vs cup goes.

August 9, 2013	#1
tedln Guest Posts: n/a	Growing tomato seedlings in the heat! Many people claim you must plant new tomato plants in July in order to attain a good crop of tomatoes in the fall. In the high summer heat of July in Texas, most of my young seedlings simply wither and die. If I delay planting until mid to late August, my plants have a much better chance of surviving the heat and producing tomatoes before the first frost in late October or early November. I planted some seedlings in mid July this year to see how they can handle the heat. I'm making sure they have sufficient moisture and I even gave them some shade cloth. Most of them still have leaves turning brown and looking like death is imminent. I'm curious what growing tricks or methods other people use to insure their July planted seedlings survive the heat and grow into the fall. Ted

August 9, 2013	#5
Redbaron Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 4,488	Ted, I grew a few this year not knowing if my plants would survive. My plants survived. So the seedlings are just an extra. However, I can generally sow directly in the ground for fall. I do nothing special but mulch heavily when they sprout and make sure they get shade and water. Some 15 foot sunflowers handle the shade. __________________ Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture

August 9, 2013	#7
hornstrider Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Hutto, Texas Posts: 230	I planted my fall plants on July 15 this year, and last year. So far I have not had any issues w/ the heat affecting my seedlings. I did do something different this year. Instead of starting my plants in the greenhouse under lights I started them outside in the garden in IHORT plugs in seed trays using sunlight for my light source. I put them out in the Texas heat to get them acclimated to the hot conditions from the get go. Also it has rained on July 15th the last two years cooling things off for 10 days or so. I believe the rain cooled things down enough for the roots to take hold. I also have a few spring plants sort of alive. I took one good stem from the mother plant, and buried the stem in amended soil w/ lots of compost next to the mother plant. That stem will grow it's own root system, and will produce a nice crop of tomato's in the fall. http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps42fc4c9e.jpg http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps370ca9b7.jpg http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps2e241a1e.jpg Last edited by hornstrider; August 9, 2013 at 04:33 PM. Reason: attached pictures

August 11, 2013	#13
nolabelle Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: N.O., LA (Zone 8b) Posts: 136	My head is reeling from all this information. Makes me wonder if I'll ever be successful with tomatoes. It all seems so complicated. My two pathetic tomato plants are barely green. I am keeping myself from yanking them up by the roots. I know they won't do anything, but we're on a first name basis, lol. I hope to stay encouraged by hanging out here with you folks __________________ I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it!

August 9, 2013	#2
Cheryl2017 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: san antonio, texas Posts: 174	Hi Ted, That is my understanding also. Got to get them plants in the ground last couple weeks of july. However. August is every bit as miserable hot or worse than July for us. The only other thing I do is weekly folage feed with seaweed and molasses. Someone told me it helps with both cold and heat stress. For sure I loose more fall tomato plants then spring ones.

August 9, 2013	#3
tlintx Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: SeTx Posts: 881	My experience this year has been similar -- July plants are hanging in there but not doing much. They are reasonably tall but that's actually worse, because every foot is a cluster of fruit that isn't there. I'm thinking I'll top them mid-August in the hopes of getting some suckers going. The seedlings I started for plant out in August were looking good until this heat spell hit. Now I'm wondering if they'll survive to plant out. I know now, next year, to plant twice as many because the attrition rate is ridiculous. Even the cherries in the shade are looking odd -- bleached, papery edges (possible sunburn from all the watering?) and not doing much. The exception is Reisentraube. What a wonderful tomato!

August 9, 2013	#6
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I start my seed in the air conditioning and after they are potted up I wait for a nice rainy day and move them outside in partial shade for at least a week then start moving them into more direct sunlight until they get about 9 or 10 inches tall. I give them a feeding of Miracle Grow or TTF every week until they are ready to go into the garden. I also treat them with Daconil weekly and if any diseases start on them I treat them with the bleach spray. I also let them dry out pretty good once or twice while they are hardening off. It seems to increase the root ball even though they look bad when they wilt like that they usually recover quickly after a good drink. I plant them out into already watered ground that is heavily mulched with cypress mulch. If they start wilting after a day or two I will give them a cup or two of diluted Miracle Grow. It is much better to plant them very late in the day or on a rainy day when it is cooler. One thing I never do anymore is plant them deep this time of the year because it increases the chance of bacterial wilt when you plant them deep in the warm summer soil. Since I stopped planting my seedlings deeper than where they are in the cups I have cut down on my loses this time of the year by about 90%. Despite all the work my plants will still look pretty spindly and thin until the nights start cooling down a little and it is a constant battle with diseases and pests to keep them healthy until then. Bill

August 9, 2013	#8
decherdt Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 329	We had some good Fall tomatoes last November, so we started seeds the first weekend of June this year. Potted up to 6 inch deep 4 inch pots (P86D) the last weekend of June and straight outside to start hardening off. Gave them plenty of kelp water for growing roots. Planted July 13 in double dug holes between the Spring tom root balls, replacing the bottom scoop with 50/50 compost/black kow, leaving a basin to catch water, and covered with straw, partly under my neighbor's giant cottonwood. Have 2 ft tall plants with blooms and a few tiny fruit, with shade Noon to 4 pm. They droop a little when it gets 105F + but bounce back ok. Giving them each about half a gallon of water twice a week, so far. I think that's about 6-7 practices? to beat the heat. (Something similar plus row cover to beat the cold)

August 12, 2013	#15
tlintx Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: SeTx Posts: 881	Harder than Houston? That's a challenge! You need to fertilize those guys! I was afraid of over fertilizing but had to do something, started using 20-20-20 at half strength every few days and they perked right up (as in, within a few days). Still look sad and heat-stricken and bug-eaten, but not like I should yank them up immediately. My seedlings, on the other hand, wow. Gorgeous to chewed looking overnight. I think they just hit critical mass as far as size vs cup goes.