General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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October 27, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nauvoo, Alabama
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chicken manure vs 10-10-10 thought
I have a lot of chickens......60 plus the broilers
You know how they use the chemical fertilizers like 13-13-13 or 10-10-10 in the Earthbox, global buckets, earthtainers in a "fertilizer strip".... Well, I can't find a deffinate answer as to why you can or cannot use "dried chicken manure" the same way. Regular chemical fertilizers are put in a strip away from the plant base so it does not burn the plant while it is slowly pulled into the soil by moisture to give the plant nutrients. Wouldn't dried chicken manure do the same thing?
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October 27, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Finland, EU
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I can only answer from my own experience. In Finland, chicken manure is commonly used for gardening... it's sold wherever garden supplies are available. Often it's mixed with sea kelp.
Yes, it is adviced to push it in the sides of the container when planting a seedling, so the fragile newbie roots wouldn't be burned by it. Or, the manure is mixed with water and used as liquid fertilizer. If you have manure from your own chickens, just make sure they are all healthy.... in order to avoid any salmonella danger. If you have a commercial farm, and use antibiotics, I'd be concerned about them passing on to manure and to the plants - with organic chickens, there of course isn't such an issue. |
October 27, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nauvoo, Alabama
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My chickens were suppose to be tested this past Friday but it looks like it will be early week before that happens. The chickens look and act healthy but I just wanted to make sure. (NPIP)
I'm not commercial and haven't used antibiotics
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October 27, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
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Location: Finland, EU
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If you have loads of 'poo' from healthy chickens, you're a very lucky gardener. That stuff is stinky (even when dry), but really makes everything grow.
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October 27, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
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In the Book Nature Farming and Microbial Applications a test was performed measuring sugars and organic acids in ripe tomato fruit from different fertilization treatments to include Chicken Manure, Organic (Bokashi) and chemical fertilizer. The chicken manure crop had the highest sugar content and the chemical fertilizer had the lowest amount of sugar content.
Ami
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October 27, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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I do remember reading an article, some time ago, which stated that chicken poo should be composted before use. Seems it is a strong Nitrogen source it will do damage if used directly. I would play safe, pile it for a year along with the regular compost.
Lucky you, to have such a problem. |
October 27, 2013 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Finland, EU
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Quote:
I've used both, and will probably use them again next year - not in the same containers, though. Last edited by NarnianGarden; October 27, 2013 at 11:12 PM. |
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October 27, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: ohio
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Dried chicken manure is "hot" ( there is a lot of urea in it and it will smell like ammonia). If you use too much you will burn your plants. If they are small it will kill them. I accidentally put too much on a couple of trays of plants in my greenhouse last spring and killed a few new seedling batches. I was so disgusted with myself, but I didn't realize it was so potent.. So my advice is to use it sparingly.
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October 27, 2013 | #9 | ||
Tomatovillian™
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Quote:
Quote:
If the manure is incorporated into a more acidic soil or a compost pile with more acidic components then a different set of bacteria are more active and convert the urea to ammonium (NH4) |
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October 28, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
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my opinion is that manure of all kinds is excellent fertilizer and source of organic matter once it has been properly composted. I would personally never use fresh or dried non-composted manure, chicken or otherwise, in my garden or on my plants. Not only for the reasons mentioned above like the potential to "burn" plants from high ammonia concentrations but for the possibility of contamination by fecal bacteria that would be killed by proper composting. Fecal colifirms on greens like lettuce and spinach have become a leading cause of food poisoning.
http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dm...ruit/fresh.htm KarenO Last edited by KarenO; October 28, 2013 at 01:45 AM. |
October 28, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nauvoo, Alabama
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Thank you for all the information and opinions.
I will compost.
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February 23, 2014 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
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Stinky is right! We had a neighbor when we lived on Long Island (New York) who used to get a truckload delivered when he was starting his garden each spring. Stunk up the neighborhood until he got it mixed in with his soil.
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February 23, 2014 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
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Chicken Manure is really "hot" because of the urea in it (chickens don't pee, it's an all-in-one kind of deal.) I would pile it, soak it, turn it and do this a lot of times. If it is too hot, it can really fry roots/plants. I have used 10 year old composted horse manure for all of my gardening life. Now that I am in Mexico, it's burro manure. That said, we grew our own hay on our ranch in Wyoming and there was little if any weed seed in it. My burro manure in Mexico does have some weed seed but not enough to make me manic.
Cow manure is awfully hot also. The best is goat or rabbit. I had a friend who was a famous Iris hybridizer and he would drive 100 miles to get goat poo. The secret to all of these is composting...fries weed seeds, leaches out urea or other stuff you don't want and it is usually free and plentiful. I swear on my Mother's grave I have never used a commercial fertilizer on my garden in my life. The other benefit is that all composted manures really help your soil, lightening heavy soil and providing water retention for sandy soils. My tomato beds (and I have a lot...) are basically what were 4 foot deep compost piles, spread out and rototilled unto death.
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February 23, 2014 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
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I grow in Earthboxes. Manures of all types are not advised as they work against the necessary wicking action of the growing media and ultimately turn it to muck, defeating the system.
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February 23, 2014 | #15 |
BANNED
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Whether you are using something organic or inorganic to feed your tomato plants, choose something with a higher proportion of potash to nitrogen (but not too high). For an organic fertilizer, an NPK of 4-4-7 is very good and I assume this fertilizer would also contain minor- and micro-nutrients plus other beneficial soil amendments. For an inorganic fertilizer, choose something with NPK ratios (not values) of 2:1:3; for example 10-5-15 or 16-8-24.
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