Tomato Support Structure

[Durgan]

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LRAZW 1 May 2014 Tomato Support Structure
An overhead tomato support structure was build today ready to plant the tomatoes at the end of May. The verticals are 8 foot rebar and four T steel fence posts. The structure is fastened with plastic ties. There is enough space for 25 tomato plants. Surface area used is 8 feet by 25 feet and the structure is six feet clearance for head room. A layer of compost was added, which is all the fertilizer used.To support the plants 1/8 cotton rope is used, hand tied with a non slip knot on the plant and a clove hitch on the support structure. Additional ropes are added to support branching. Only crowded suckers are removed

[b54red]

Durgan you could save yourself some money if you got a roll of sisal twine. You could still use the rope for the main stem but use the heavy sisal twine for all those other limbs and then just throw it away at the end of the season. The last 2500 ft roll I bought cost me around 14 dollars. I use it for all kinds of tying that needs doing in a garden. This year I am using synthetic baling twine to support my single stem tomatoes because it is a little stouter and doesn't stretch any. This is the first time using it and I'm hoping it will work okay since it is even cheaper than the sisal twine at about 16 dollars for 4500 feet for the heavier square bale twine.

Bill

[Ed of Somis]

I always like it when people give support thought AHEAD of time. Last year I was behind the power curve. You might consider a couple of diagonal supports between your horizontal and vertical members. In construction...this always is referred to as "shear" strength. Nice job!

[Durgan]

The cotton is not prohibitively expensive around $2.50 for 100 Feet. I like it since it is soft and doesn't damage the plant. I will take a look when next in Home Depot for the sisal rope. I dislike the man made fiber ropes, since the knots tend to slip and don't always remain tied. At the end of the season, I cut the ropes away with pliers and discard.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Ed of Somis

I always like it when people give support thought AHEAD of time. Last year I was behind the power curve. You might consider a couple of diagonal supports between your horizontal and vertical members. In construction...this always is referred to as "shear" strength. Nice job!

For rigidity a couple of T steel fence posts stiffen up the rebar. If starting afresh, I would use only eight foot T fence posts, but I have the rebar, accumulated over several years so use it. The structure has never collapsed on me. It is relatively quick to construct.

[aclum]

Hi,

I love using the orange baling twine for trellising, but the knots do often slip. I have my lines tied at one end to a wood staple pounded into the wood of my raised bed, then drape it over over the crossbar, and bring it back down and thread it through a second wood staple hammered a few inches down from where the twine was first attached. (The twine is sort of in a V-shape looking at it from the size). Then I tie it back onto itself with a slip knot that I can slide up or down to shorten or lengthen the twine.

I use regular tomato clips on the twine to keep the knot from slipping until I need to reposition it. Works great!

Anne

[Durgan]

aclum

I am so adept at tying the support strings, that the clips would be redundant in my case. I can add, twist and tie about once a week until the tying is no longer necessary as the season advances. At the begininning of the season the effort is more intense.

[aclum]

Hi Durgan,

I can see how the clips wouldn't really apply to what you're currently doing - esp. if you're using 1/8" cotton twine which is probably too big for a regular tomato clip anyway. However, you did mention not liking the synthetic twine due to knots tending to slip, so I thought I'd post the photo to show how this problem might be overcome. It might be helpful for those following this thread who are currently weighing the pros and cons of various types of twine used for trellising. I only use the ciip on the final (adjustable) slip knot at the end of the line. I haven't had any problems with other types of knots slipping.

Nice looking set-up you have, btw !

Anne

[luigiwu]

I've heard the poly baling twine is the best. I wouldn't want my ##lbs of tomatoes crashing to the ground when the natural twine gives out - which I know for a fact will happen with jute.
Gotta get my hands on some heavy duty baling twine this year as well!

Durgan, did you paint the rebars or what is the green coating (do they just come like that??

[Durgan]

Durgan, did you paint the rebars or what is the green coating (do they just come like that??

Some of the older rebar was painted with Tremclad on a plastic sheet with a brush. This lasts forever without rusting. Now one can buy rebar coated with plastic which are more expensive than the plain old non-painted. Both types are shown in the structure.

[b54red]

I am trying to get the tying down to a minimum and that is why I am using clips. I know that twisting will work and have used it with sisal twine in the past but have had some problems with accidental breakage of the growth tip from time to time.

luigiwu, when you try to get your baling twine make sure you get the square bale kind because it is thicker and easier to handle for tomato support. The rolls I got came as a pair of 4500 ft rolls with a total of 9000 feet for around 30 dollars so it is quite reasonable in price.

Bill

[oldasrocks]

I use cattle panels. Support the first one with 3 T posts. Offset the 2nd with a one square section of a scrap panel. I've used the same panels for over 20 yrs as they last forever. After the vines freeze and dry in place I use a weedburner to remove them.

I plant 12 tomatoes in a 16 ft run.

[MrBig46]

I also had problems with accidental breakage of the growth tip problems when using twine. I lost so three to four plants each season (when growing on one stem - breaking top = end of the plant).
Vladimír

[luigiwu]

Anne, what you're describing sounds like something I want to do but I can't figure out what you mean exactly. I guess my trouble is doing an upside-down (??) slip knot maybe? How dumb, right? lol. I'll keep trying. I also have another dumb question, how many clips do you think you end up using per stem for the season?

Originally Posted by aclum

Hi,

I love using the orange baling twine for trellising, but the knots do often slip. I have my lines tied at one end to a wood staple pounded into the wood of my raised bed, then drape it over over the crossbar, and bring it back down and thread it through a second wood staple hammered a few inches down from where the twine was first attached. (The twine is sort of in a V-shape looking at it from the size). Then I tie it back onto itself with a slip knot that I can slide up or down to shorten or lengthen the twine.

I use regular tomato clips on the twine to keep the knot from slipping until I need to reposition it. Works great!

Anne

[Sodak]

Originally Posted by oldasrocks

I use cattle panels. Support the first one with 3 T posts. Offset the 2nd with a one square section of a scrap panel. I've used the same panels for over 20 yrs as they last forever. After the vines freeze and dry in place I use a weedburner to remove them.

I plant 12 tomatoes in a 16 ft run.

any pictures?