can you confirm this leaf curl is due to overfertilizing? pics

cleo88 · May 6, 2014

Haven't logged on for a year or more, but glad to see the old community is still thriving!

Not all of my little plants have this problem (see pics), but it would make sense that it would be due to over fertilizing. I potted up with some potting soil that was already enriched (Miracle Gro Seed Starting Potting Mix) and then a week later I watered with what I thought was very weak Miracle Gro tomato food - whoops. Not really thinking too clearly. Now a few plants have the first branch or two bowing down horizontally, and the leaves on those branches are curling. The tops of the plants look fine.

Anyway, if this is due to too much fertilizer, is there anything I can do? Will it just resolve itself?

**mdvpc** · May 6, 2014

I don't know the answer to your question. But if you think thats what it is you can try and flush the fert out with water. I assume your cups have holes in the bottom. If you decide to try this, make sure the water runs out through the holes and flush them good.

KarenO · May 6, 2014

they look OK. I would just let them be for now. generally those lowest branches are trimmed off when they are planted out anyway but for now The leaves are green and not spotty or diseased and therefore are contributing to photosynthesis in the plant.
I don't know when your plant out date is but I would think it's time to get them outdoors to harden off gradually for 10 days or so before planting out in their final location. No more fertilizer til planting out I would say. Don't mess around trying to wash out fertilizer or whatever, it's bound to just cause over-wet style issues instead.

we mess around too much with seedlings in general I think, proud parents that we are.
They'll be fine
Karen

cleo88 · May 6, 2014

I'm in Massachuetts and plan to start hardening off this Sunday (or earlier).
It's so friggin' cold here that I could probably wait - everything is delayed. But not so cold that there is frost at night - just not all that high during the day - and it's windy. Like always, when I put them in the ground, they will only grow if it's warm enough, if not they will just sit there like a bump on a log.

Thanks.

gssgarden · May 6, 2014

Thinking drainage issues maybe?? Toms don't like wet feet!

Greg

AKmark · May 6, 2014

I don't think it is, the plants would be much darker green. I actually see burn on the tips of the leaves when I know I am pushing their limits. When plants act goofy, just walk away first, let them sit until it is obvious they need water, then give them a dose or two of just that. I think your plants look fine

AKmark · May 6, 2014

Here is what I was talking about

dustdevil · May 6, 2014

The droopy large branch coming out at a 40 degree or so angle should be removed. Use something sharp and sterile to do the surgery...single edge razor blade works good.

They look plenty wet. If it were me, I'd replant with fresh soil. Flushing would activate the time release fertilizer in the potting mix...

I see bits of soil on some of the branches. Also don't see many cots...perhaps you replanted deeper. Did you recently repot? Maybe you did too much at once and they are in shock??? Those roots are delicate and must be handled with care when repotting.

Fiishergurl · May 6, 2014

I think too wet

Ginny

Cole_Robbie · May 6, 2014

Leaf curl is a very generic sign of stress; it could be a lot of things. Fert burn makes dead leaves from the bottom up; it doesn't look like that to me.

HydroExplorer · May 6, 2014

That looks like calcium problem. Usually caused by watering too much or not enough.

The pictures lower down (from another poster) look like either a deficiency or overdose in magnesium and phosphorus. I believe the dieing leaf tips are caused by a phosphorus problem. The dark green veins with yellow blotchy background is a magnesium problem.

AKmark · May 6, 2014

The yellow blotchy leaves are caused by length of day up here in AK, the solar energy really bakes the bottom leaves, as the blades face the south side of the greenhouse, happens every year, and many varieties really get it bad as the summer progresses. By fall it all goes away and the pure lush green returns, not a mag. defiency, phosphorus or anything of like, just 18 hours of blazing sun.

KarenO · May 6, 2014

tomato diagnostics and surgery with sterile instruments = what I refer to as messing around.
I get similar checkering on the south facing leaves of some of my plants too, but only the plants on my super hot southfacing deck. It's broad Daylight from 4 am to 11PM in June and I Agree Mark that it's not a deficiency as your plants are doing great producing like crazy and as you say it is only on the south facing leaves of some of your plants. If it was a deficiency the leaves on the other side of the plant would be affected equally.
It's the Land of the midnight sun up here and more fuel for my argument against aggressive pruning as the damage would be sun scald on the fruit if the leaves were not there to protect them. More for my assertion that it is quite different growing tomatoes in the north than it is in the south I'm going to write a book one day about the subject

I don't know how much work has been done on the effect of day length on tomato plants but I believe it makes a significant difference.
Karen

tomatoguy · May 18, 2014

Leaf Curl can also be just a characteristic of the variety. Black Krim, for instance, has always shown leaf curl, in my garden.

ginger2778 · May 18, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarenO

tomato diagnostics and surgery with sterile instruments = what I refer to as messing around.
I get similar checkering on the south facing leaves of some of my plants too, but only the plants on my super hot southfacing deck. It's broad Daylight from 4 am to 11PM in June and I Agree Mark that it's not a deficiency as your plants are doing great producing like crazy and as you say it is only on the south facing leaves of some of your plants. If it was a deficiency the leaves on the other side of the plant would be affected equally.
It's the Land of the midnight sun up here and more fuel for my argument against aggressive pruning as the damage would be sun scald on the fruit if the leaves were not there to protect them. More for my assertion that it is quite different growing tomatoes in the north than it is in the south I'm going to write a book one day about the subject

I don't know how much work has been done on the effect of day length on tomato plants but I believe it makes a significant difference.
Karen

Karen, I would read that book cover to cover.

Marsha

May 6, 2014	#2
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	I don't know the answer to your question. But if you think thats what it is you can try and flush the fert out with water. I assume your cups have holes in the bottom. If you decide to try this, make sure the water runs out through the holes and flush them good. __________________ Michael

May 6, 2014	#3
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,931	they look OK. I would just let them be for now. generally those lowest branches are trimmed off when they are planted out anyway but for now The leaves are green and not spotty or diseased and therefore are contributing to photosynthesis in the plant. I don't know when your plant out date is but I would think it's time to get them outdoors to harden off gradually for 10 days or so before planting out in their final location. No more fertilizer til planting out I would say. Don't mess around trying to wash out fertilizer or whatever, it's bound to just cause over-wet style issues instead. we mess around too much with seedlings in general I think, proud parents that we are. They'll be fine Karen Last edited by KarenO; May 6, 2014 at 01:12 PM.

May 6, 2014	#8
dustdevil Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: WI, USA Zone4 Posts: 1,887	The droopy large branch coming out at a 40 degree or so angle should be removed. Use something sharp and sterile to do the surgery...single edge razor blade works good. They look plenty wet. If it were me, I'd replant with fresh soil. Flushing would activate the time release fertilizer in the potting mix... I see bits of soil on some of the branches. Also don't see many cots...perhaps you replanted deeper. Did you recently repot? Maybe you did too much at once and they are in shock??? Those roots are delicate and must be handled with care when repotting. Last edited by dustdevil; May 6, 2014 at 02:05 PM.

May 6, 2014	#13
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,931	tomato diagnostics and surgery with sterile instruments = what I refer to as messing around. I get similar checkering on the south facing leaves of some of my plants too, but only the plants on my super hot southfacing deck. It's broad Daylight from 4 am to 11PM in June and I Agree Mark that it's not a deficiency as your plants are doing great producing like crazy and as you say it is only on the south facing leaves of some of your plants. If it was a deficiency the leaves on the other side of the plant would be affected equally. It's the Land of the midnight sun up here and more fuel for my argument against aggressive pruning as the damage would be sun scald on the fruit if the leaves were not there to protect them. More for my assertion that it is quite different growing tomatoes in the north than it is in the south I'm going to write a book one day about the subject I don't know how much work has been done on the effect of day length on tomato plants but I believe it makes a significant difference. Karen Last edited by KarenO; May 6, 2014 at 04:39 PM.

May 6, 2014	#4
cleo88 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Sharon, MA Zone 6 Posts: 225	I'm in Massachuetts and plan to start hardening off this Sunday (or earlier). It's so friggin' cold here that I could probably wait - everything is delayed. But not so cold that there is frost at night - just not all that high during the day - and it's windy. Like always, when I put them in the ground, they will only grow if it's warm enough, if not they will just sit there like a bump on a log. Thanks.

May 6, 2014	#5
gssgarden Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N.C. Posts: 1,827	Thinking drainage issues maybe?? Toms don't like wet feet! Greg

May 6, 2014	#6
AKmark Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Wasilla Alaska Posts: 2,010	I don't think it is, the plants would be much darker green. I actually see burn on the tips of the leaves when I know I am pushing their limits. When plants act goofy, just walk away first, let them sit until it is obvious they need water, then give them a dose or two of just that. I think your plants look fine

May 6, 2014	#9
Fiishergurl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Oak Hill, Florida Posts: 1,781	I think too wet Ginny

May 6, 2014	#10
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Leaf curl is a very generic sign of stress; it could be a lot of things. Fert burn makes dead leaves from the bottom up; it doesn't look like that to me.

May 6, 2014	#11
HydroExplorer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 132	That looks like calcium problem. Usually caused by watering too much or not enough. The pictures lower down (from another poster) look like either a deficiency or overdose in magnesium and phosphorus. I believe the dieing leaf tips are caused by a phosphorus problem. The dark green veins with yellow blotchy background is a magnesium problem.

May 18, 2014	#14
tomatoguy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Rockvale, TN Zone 7A Posts: 526	Leaf Curl can also be just a characteristic of the variety. Black Krim, for instance, has always shown leaf curl, in my garden.