I love sweet success cukes but

Jaysan · June 7, 2014

It seems ever since I started growing them they start off well producing several cukes but then quite a few of the small cukes, about an inch or two, will yellow on the tip, shrivel and die.

Any ideas on why that is?

Should the cukes be harvested and not allowed to get larger so the little ones get more nutrients?

They are supposed to be self pollinating or not need pollinating.

I have 4 in an 18 gallon SWC with two cups of fert in a knee high buried about 3 inches in between the plants down the center side to side. The "soil" seems to be about right moisture wise.

The vines grew well and looked fine but this thing with the shriveling little cukes has me stumped.

Can't find much in searches either.

RebelRidin · June 7, 2014

I believe that may be calcium deficiency. It can happen with summer squash too.

Jaysan · June 7, 2014

I had not thought of that. I did add lime and azomite when planting and use a fertilizer with calcium.

At this point I am willing to entertain anything.

RebelRidin · June 7, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaysan

I had not thought of that. I did add lime and azomite when planting and use a fertilizer with calcium.

At this point I am willing to entertain anything.

It seems less likely given those additions. I was just thinking their very rapid growth might be a problem like it can with squash.

Cole_Robbie · June 8, 2014

I've been able to raise a good first crop, too, but then they always crap out on me. I think they get root-bound in any container.

Wi-sunflower · June 8, 2014

Yes, I would say 4 plants is 2 too many in that container. I used to grow 1 plant of Sweet Success in a bushel box in the greenhouse and train them up a string. Even then they needed a LOT of water as they got root bound.

Carol

Jaysan · June 8, 2014

I put 4 because I thought in an SWC where water and fert is supplied constantly it should not be a problem. I believe Raybo puts 6 in a 32 gallon tainer? When I have pulled the plants in the fall it doesn't seem rootbound. But I will take that information in and consider it for sure.

I do remember last year they did this but later started producing again acceptably. It's strange also that one vine is doing ok and another is not and another is so so.

rnewste · June 8, 2014

Jaysan,

4 cukes in an 18 gallon container is no issue. I always plant 12 cukes (or more) in my 31 gallon EarthTainers - and they thrive. Yes, there is a bit of "competition" for sunlight as they get up to about 3 feet tall - but then I thin out the weaker vines.

Density is not your issue at the moment, instead it is likley soil or nutrient related as others have suggested.

I believe it is normal for about 25% of the flowers to then not fully develop into cukes - just the plant's way of self-regulating propagation instincts.

Raybo

Jaysan · June 8, 2014

I am glad to see you weigh in Ray. I know without a doubt you have more experience with SWC gardening than most and I have seen the pictures of your Sweet Success and they always look "successful."

Would it be too much to ask how you mix your soil ratio and what you use for fertilizer?

My mix was some 2 or 3 year old 5 1 1 pinebark, peat, perlite, that I added peat and perlite to approximate 3 2 1. I added in one cup of powdered lime when mixing. It drains well and doesn't seem overly moist. If I thought that I could always take the plastic off.

I am wondering since I used straight peat instead of MG "potting soil" could that do anything.

When I planted them I made a mix of 1 TBS azomite, 1 TBS Ultra Green 10 10 10 as a starter fert, and 1 TBS of mychos, and mixed it in each hole. I put about 2 cups of the same fert in a knee high and put it in between the plants crossways of the container.

Do you see anything there that might be a problem.

rnewste · June 8, 2014

Jaysan,

I am now going with a 3:2:2 ratio of Pro-Mix BX / Microbark / Perlite for my cukes. I have learned that cukes do not like "wet feet". I do the fertilization strip handle-to-handle with 3 Cups Plant-tone and 1 Cup New Tomato-tone (in my 31 gallon EarthTainers), so your 2 Cups might want to back off to 1.5 C next year. I use a dusting of Bio-Tone in the planting hole, then water in with Azos a few times initially.

These were my Sweet Success a couple of years ago:

Are you using Dolomite Lime or Hydrated Lime?

Raybo

Jaysan · June 8, 2014

Dolomite lime.

What were you seeing that made you think cucumbers didn't like "wet feet"?

I was thinking of pulling the plastic back but if it rains the fert strip will really get drenched. I have another container with seedling just starting so I could take them up and change the ratios and try plant tone as I do have some.

It is interesting that you are using Plant tone. I had done some reading on how organics might be less than optimal compared to synthetics in containers. Obviously your pictures show that is not so!

So much to learn!

rnewste · June 8, 2014

Yellowing leaves, wilting were tip-offs that my mix retained too much moisture, hence the change to a 3:2:2 ratio

I have found the combination of the 2 'tones works well on cukes, for me. So far, the 3:1 ratio seems the most successful. (Not to say other fertilizers won't work as well - I just have good results with this combo).

With the higher NPK synthetics, I would back off to using 2 Cups in the EarthTainer.

Raybo

Jaysan · June 8, 2014

Mine get wilty when the sun gets hot on them but as soon as the shade hit them they perk right up.
I wouldn't say the leaves are yellow. The older leaves at the bottom get a bit splotchy around the edges but I thought that might just be normal.

They can really drink up some water too.

One thing I will add that could make a difference is for my wicking chamber I am using two 6 inch pots, one each on the ends. I cut the holes about 4 inches to reduce the amount of wicking. Maybe the two are making their "feet" too wet........

Last year when I pulled some plants a lot of the mix in the corners with one 6 inch pot was dry so I was trying to add some moisture. But even then I had the same issue with losing little cukes. What a puzzle.......

Jaysan · June 12, 2014

I mixed some 322 per the direction on the earthtainer instructions using Mg potting soil, pine bark fines, and perlite. It was quite gritty compared to what I had done by trying to remix 511. Also I had used peat and not the potting soil. The potting soil does already have some bark and perlite so I can see using that would add drainage. Also the extra perlite added to to grittiness.

Wish I could get promix but just can't find it.

Will try some more cucumbers in this mix and see how it goes.

rnewste · June 12, 2014

I trust you used MG Potting Mix - - not Potting Soil.

Raybo

June 7, 2014	#1
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	I love sweet success cukes but It seems ever since I started growing them they start off well producing several cukes but then quite a few of the small cukes, about an inch or two, will yellow on the tip, shrivel and die. Any ideas on why that is? Should the cukes be harvested and not allowed to get larger so the little ones get more nutrients? They are supposed to be self pollinating or not need pollinating. I have 4 in an 18 gallon SWC with two cups of fert in a knee high buried about 3 inches in between the plants down the center side to side. The "soil" seems to be about right moisture wise. The vines grew well and looked fine but this thing with the shriveling little cukes has me stumped. Can't find much in searches either.

June 7, 2014	#2
RebelRidin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Maryland's Eastern Shore Posts: 993	I believe that may be calcium deficiency. It can happen with summer squash too. __________________ George _____________________________ "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it’s natural manure." Thomas Jefferson, 1787

June 8, 2014	#8
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Jaysan, 4 cukes in an 18 gallon container is no issue. I always plant 12 cukes (or more) in my 31 gallon EarthTainers - and they thrive. Yes, there is a bit of "competition" for sunlight as they get up to about 3 feet tall - but then I thin out the weaker vines. Density is not your issue at the moment, instead it is likley soil or nutrient related as others have suggested. I believe it is normal for about 25% of the flowers to then not fully develop into cukes - just the plant's way of self-regulating propagation instincts. Raybo Last edited by rnewste; June 8, 2014 at 03:28 PM.

June 8, 2014	#9
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	I am glad to see you weigh in Ray. I know without a doubt you have more experience with SWC gardening than most and I have seen the pictures of your Sweet Success and they always look "successful." Would it be too much to ask how you mix your soil ratio and what you use for fertilizer? My mix was some 2 or 3 year old 5 1 1 pinebark, peat, perlite, that I added peat and perlite to approximate 3 2 1. I added in one cup of powdered lime when mixing. It drains well and doesn't seem overly moist. If I thought that I could always take the plastic off. I am wondering since I used straight peat instead of MG "potting soil" could that do anything. When I planted them I made a mix of 1 TBS azomite, 1 TBS Ultra Green 10 10 10 as a starter fert, and 1 TBS of mychos, and mixed it in each hole. I put about 2 cups of the same fert in a knee high and put it in between the plants crossways of the container. Do you see anything there that might be a problem. Last edited by Jaysan; June 8, 2014 at 03:36 PM.

June 8, 2014	#10
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Jaysan, I am now going with a 3:2:2 ratio of Pro-Mix BX / Microbark / Perlite for my cukes. I have learned that cukes do not like "wet feet". I do the fertilization strip handle-to-handle with 3 Cups Plant-tone and 1 Cup New Tomato-tone (in my 31 gallon EarthTainers), so your 2 Cups might want to back off to 1.5 C next year. I use a dusting of Bio-Tone in the planting hole, then water in with Azos a few times initially. These were my Sweet Success a couple of years ago: Are you using Dolomite Lime or Hydrated Lime? Raybo Last edited by rnewste; June 8, 2014 at 05:02 PM.

June 8, 2014	#5
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I've been able to raise a good first crop, too, but then they always crap out on me. I think they get root-bound in any container.

June 8, 2014	#6
Wi-sunflower Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 2,591	Yes, I would say 4 plants is 2 too many in that container. I used to grow 1 plant of Sweet Success in a bushel box in the greenhouse and train them up a string. Even then they needed a LOT of water as they got root bound. Carol

June 12, 2014	#14
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	I mixed some 322 per the direction on the earthtainer instructions using Mg potting soil, pine bark fines, and perlite. It was quite gritty compared to what I had done by trying to remix 511. Also I had used peat and not the potting soil. The potting soil does already have some bark and perlite so I can see using that would add drainage. Also the extra perlite added to to grittiness. Wish I could get promix but just can't find it. Will try some more cucumbers in this mix and see how it goes.