Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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January 12, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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Seed Growing Advice Needed
So, you guys have conned me into starting my maters from seed this year. I see the HydroFarm system online that is affordable and rated fairly well. I originally thought of germinating in the house without heat (this unit has a heat mat). Should I get the taller dome (7")...or is the 2" dome tall enough??? I actually am considering sowing seeds directly into my garden (my weather is mild by March), rather than re-potting after true leaves appear. thanks
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January 12, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Have you checked out the thread about using diatomaceous earth as a seed starting medium? It is in the Starting From Seed forum.
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January 12, 2015 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Also check out Craig's dense planting method videos in the starting from seed forum which can be modified for your needs. It's excellent. Does California need heat mats? I start mine in August so for sure I don't. LOL!
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January 12, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Abingdon, Va
Posts: 184
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My tomato seeds sprout in 3-4 days on a heat mat @ ~75°+ under a 2" dome. After a few days I remove the dome completely. Air circulation is better for tomatoes than humidity. I keep mine just a few inches below 6500k fluorescent light. 3-5 weeks the plants are ready to hit the ground. Direct seeds in your environment may be fine, but generally you get better control by using transplants in my area. But who knows maybe with a little early stress from direct sowing makes a better tomato. Here is post by DarJones that is worth anybody's attention when growing maters
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January 12, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I start seeds in a $10 Ferry-Morse seed starting tray and put them under a $35 shop light from Home Depot.
Here's my exhaustive seed starting guide: http://www.settfest.com/2010/06/starting-from-seed/
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
January 12, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Suburban Washington, DC (Zone 7A)
Posts: 347
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Ed, I also use nctomatoman's dense planting method; it works like gangbusters and you don't need all of that expensive dome system.
Just my two cents of course, for those of you who like using that sort of thing! But for me, I use seed trays from Johnny's, exactly the same kind he does, covered with a little saran wrap, set on top of a heat mat, on a cage rack set in front of a south-facing window - my seeds germinate like a charm. Once they're up, I transfer them to my basement under lights. With this method you only repot once before they go into the ground. I can't say enough about how successful I've been using it. Watch the videos, they are incredibly helpful. Just search here on T'ville for "dense planting method." Good luck! |
January 12, 2015 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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January 12, 2015 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern WI
Posts: 2,742
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I echo a lot that has been stated here, especially following Craig's method.
I use high quality seed starting mix, I use those 4-cell planters I buy from a local garden supply store and start seeds of each variety in a single cell that is labeled. I sow the seeds, mist the soil daily and they sit atop of my refrigerator uncovered until they start germinating. At my house our kitchen is 68-70F, at those temps I get germination in 4-7 days. Once they start germinating they go under the lights in the basement (I have a Hydrofarms 4' T5 light system). Once the tomatoes get true leaves I pot them up into 4" square containers with high quality potting mix and they remain under the lights until they move into my cold frame. |
January 12, 2015 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I've started a lot of seeds in pure vermiculite watered with fish tank water.
I'll usually buy a bag of Fox Farm's expensive seed-starting mix, "Light Warrior." It's $20 for a bag, which is ridiculous, but one bag lasts all season for me, plus I start a lot of expensive hybrid pepper seeds, so I try to give them the best chance I can. I just warm up a cabinet or closet with a space heater, put a CFL bulb over them, and keep everything from drying out. |
January 12, 2015 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Suburban Washington, DC (Zone 7A)
Posts: 347
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The only thing that I spend a little bit on is the starting medium as well as for the repot. I use ProMix, which is soil less, and it is more expensive than buying just regular old potting soil. However, it works great.
I use a few of these these el cheapo shop lights (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-...IGHT/203081577) hung on a utility shelving rack in my basement. Every year I have to give away plants. Maybe I'll set up a little seedling sale this year.... |
January 12, 2015 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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For tomato starts, I use Craig's dense planting method, except instead of Saran Wrap, which I just can't seem to control, I use the method I use for microgreens, which is to simply invert a standard 10-20 greenhouse flat that has been spritzed over the seedling tray. No dome is necessary, since light is not required for germination. I just keep the germinating flats on a rack in an interior room, at room temperature, spritzing daily or as needed, then move them to my basement light racks after germination is well underway. My light racks are just four foot shop lights on chains above simple shelves.
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"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now blue-green meat, THAT'S bad for you!" -- Tommy Smothers Last edited by FarmerShawn; January 12, 2015 at 03:22 PM. Reason: danged autocorrect! |
January 12, 2015 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern WI
Posts: 2,742
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Curious, those of you that use shop lights--do you just use regular fluorescent bulbs? Are grow lights with special bulbs basically unnecessary and a good way for companies to make money? I suppose seed starting and growing larger plants are two different topics and maybe bulbs of specific temperatures are necessary for the later?
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January 12, 2015 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Suburban Washington, DC (Zone 7A)
Posts: 347
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January 12, 2015 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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January 12, 2015 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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I'm in SoCal have been starting seeds all month. I always put them on a heat mat, but I don't heat my home at night. If you have a hot spot, like back of fridge, top of water heater, etc, that can work. I am inland and have mostly sunny days so I carry my seeds outside during the day. In the evening I illuminate them with whatever I have.
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