Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 23, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Nematode's not yet epic Hydroponic thread
Hydroponic tomato pics.
How they look to you guys? They look ok but slightly off, I'm thinking its the cold nights, been in the 40's a lot at night. Seems like they took a little while to shake off the cold last year as well. Internode spacing seems short, leaves don't seem full size, some cupping. They don't seem quite as green as they ought to be in person, the photos make them slightly greener. What I done wrong so far: 1)started them with weak miracle grow solution instead of a complete hydroponic solution. 2) left them too long in the starter blocks(leggy) 3) didn't pre treat the rock wool to remove the lime (that almost killed them) 4) used univ of florida hydroponic recipe which was waaay too weak for cold weather. probably some more mistakes but haven't killed them yet. Feed is now based upon univ Arizona generic tomato pepper cucumber formula N 189 P 39 K 341 Mg 48 Ca 170 Pics are Kellogg's Breakfast (my favorite) and Bloody Butcher (new to me this year) For reference the Grodan delta blocks are 4" x 4". Nematode |
May 23, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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mhpgardener on youtube grows the most amazing tomatoes via dutch buckets - have you checked out his channel?
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
May 23, 2015 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
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Nematode, I bet hydroponics in cold temperatures is a whole other art form you are developing!
Plants look good, I know what a cold tomato plant should look like. |
May 23, 2015 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Quote:
Thanks, we have a warm week coming I expect them to shape up pretty quick. Nematode |
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May 23, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Thanks for the link, Luigiwu he is doing some interesting things, like using clones to get early tomatoes.
might have to try that , haven't puzzled it out yet how it would all work. I'm not a fan of recirculating systems myself because they tend to suffer ph problems and unknown nutrient deficiencies. Looks like he has it working though. Nematode |
May 24, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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I'm sorry I'm not more familiar with hydroponics but how does your system work? It thought all hydroponics involve a pump that dispense fertilized water. Does your plants basically get fertilizer water from a bottom source?
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
May 24, 2015 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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I have a 55gal nutrient tank a timer and a pump.
The pump turns on for a couple minutes several times a day to pump the solution through drip emitters which regulate the flow to .5gph or about one ounce per minute. Ideally there will be 10% of the feed anount overflow from the bato bucket at each feeding. |
May 24, 2015 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Just curious... I went to a hydroponics store yesterday and they had these tomatoes and eggplants that had the thickest stems. The tomato plant was still in a 1 inch rockwool cube and it was 8 to 10 inches tall with a stem larger than a number two pencil (probably twice as thick). I asked him why it was so thick and he said the Silica Si makes the stemwalls and cells thicker.
Do you use that? I was amazed at how good the plants looked. Ginny |
May 24, 2015 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Quote:
There are problems with silicates and dripper emitters they clog at high levels. I was going to introduce silicates at a lower level and see if the plants liked it. My methods are not always controlled experiments. 20ppm SiO2 seems like a good seat of the pants place to start. Also silicates really move the ph up, so I would have to use acid for ph down which is something I haven't yet had to do. Thanks for the info It will encourage me to get started! Nematode |
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May 26, 2015 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Running on automatic
Running on automatic now, The timer is set to water them several times a day with a couple ounces, no more hand watering.
Saturday afternoon mixed up a 55 gal barrel of nutrient solution 197g yara calcinit 197g Jacks 5-12-26 66g potassium sulfate element ppm N 185 NH4 10 P 50 K 347 Mg 60 Ca 180 S 66 Ph 5 without adjustment ok for me Started the automatic system and ran it for 8 minutes (8 oz per plant) to get things going went shopping Came back near dark and the leaves were closed up like venus flytraps! Checked and double checked formula and it seemed ok...... Next morning all was ok. I think the roots don't like the cold water in large doses. Plants look good today, its been warmer. Bloody Butcher is first to blossom, good timing the temps should be ok for fruit set. Should go get a vibrating toothbrush.......not so many bees around yet. For some reason had a lot of Sun Gold runts, you can see a couple to the left of the eggplant, going to see if they can catch up or if they are duds, they need to speed up quick or cucumbers are going in that bucket. Still learning. Nematode Last edited by Nematode; May 26, 2015 at 11:15 AM. Reason: spelling |
June 9, 2015 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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looking not so great
Tired of garden looking sickly.
Beans pale and crinkly Tomato pale tops Melons pale and stunted See a theme? Pale tomato tops a giveaway of iron deficiency, in the past I have added FeDTPA which has a broader ph availability than the EDTA in the pre-mix, but this time checked ph with ph dropper test kit. Nutrient tank ph 6. Hmm ok maybe at the high end of ok Checked some of the drain solution, ph 7+. ok that would lock out all the iron and explain the deficiency. Adjusted nutrient tank down to ph 5 with (100 drops/25gal) muriatic acid. Lets see what happens over the next couple days. Things can go bad fast in hydro, but theoretically you can fix them fast too. if you know what you are doing.... which I dont Added Zn because the Jack's has about half the zinc recommended for tomato.(per cornell) Current nutrient per 55gal *=new 198g calcinit 198g jacks 5-12-26 66g potassium sulfate *66g sea90 yup i did it added salt 150ppm chloride *0.5g ZN dissolvine *HCl adjust for ph 5 approx 200 drops/55gal |
June 9, 2015 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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sungold is happy
sungold is happy
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June 9, 2015 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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time for an overall shot
Been 2 weeks time for a wide shot
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June 10, 2015 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Have you thought of heating your nutrient solution?
Ami
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
June 10, 2015 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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I haven't. Are there benefits?
It usually is not cold, only when I first make a batch. I think the sun heats the black delivery pipe anyway. |
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