Early blight?

BigVanVader · May 26, 2015

So during my daily inspection saw this. My first thought was Early blight. This is a Sweet Ozark Orange. It hasn't been watered other than a few rains since planting. So far the rest of my plants appear healthy. This is actually one of if not the most healthy plant I have. Bummer for sure. Thanks for any help.

jmsieglaff · May 26, 2015

http://www.longislandhort.cornell.ed...rly_blight.htm

Second picture down kind of resembles what you've got. I'd remove the leaf and treat the plant.

b54red · May 26, 2015

I would also remove all the leaves and stems near the ground so you get better air flow. Leaves touching the ground in my garden always get EB even when sprayed with a fungicide. I have had pretty good luck controlling EB with Daconil as long as the weather cooperates and there is not rain nearly every day.

Bill

BigVanVader · May 27, 2015

Yeah I am going to prune them heavily tomorrow, Bill what is your opinion of Serenade Fungicide? I'd prefer stay organic if at all possible.

b54red · May 27, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Yeah I am going to prune them heavily tomorrow, Bill what is your opinion of Serenade Fungicide? I'd prefer stay organic if at all possible.

I tried it for a whole season with awful results and a much emptier wallet. It might be helpful where disease pressure isn't as heavy as it is around here so it might work for you. I live in an area with a lot of commercial tomato farms so every disease and pest that hits them ends up hitting my garden also.

You could use a copper fungicide as that is organic. I prefer Daconil for weekly application and alternate copper during wetter weather as it sticks better during light rains.

Bill

wormgirl · May 27, 2015

I am reading this thread to learn, because I really have no experience with diseases. But that Cornell link describes a "round leaf spots with a characteristic target appearance" which I don't really see in your pic? The plant looks great otherwise - good luck. Keep us updated.

BigVanVader · May 27, 2015

Yes it has been doing great as all my plants in that row are, It does get shaded by around 4 pm though so I think maybe overcrowding plus less sun may be creating the right conditions for fungal issues to arise. It has been fairly dry here but humidity is always high this time of year. My plan ATM is to prune heavily and spray with Seranade Max mixed with fish emulsion/kelp and see if it helps. I also plan to apply fresh mulch along the whole row.

jmsieglaff · May 27, 2015

If I see EB on a leaf, I remove it with a clean blade back to the main stem. Aggressive and deligent pruning helps a lot for me. I have more issues with Septoria than EB most years here. I think your plan is worth trying. Like Bill if any part of a leaf touches the mulch I remove it back to the stem as preventative maintaince.

mashermike · May 27, 2015

I use a combination of Mancozeb and Copper Fungicide (Bonide) at 3 tsp per gallon for maintenance, every 7 to 14 days depending on rainfall amount.
http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Chemica.../dp/B000BWZ9JO

I bring on the Daconil later in the season when we start getting daily thunderstorms. I live near Athens,GA. Your a bit north of me and B54red but IMO you are in the danger zone for all the typical foliage related fun.

Most of my tomatoes are under cover in a hoophouse. I went this route after a complete (EB/Septoria) wipeout a few years back.

Mike

BigVanVader · May 27, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashermike

I use a combination of Mancozeb and Copper Fungicide (Bonide) at 3 tsp per gallon for maintenance, every 7 to 14 days depending on rainfall amount.
http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Chemica.../dp/B000BWZ9JO

I bring on the Daconil later in the season when we start getting daily thunderstorms. I live near Athens,GA. Your a bit north of me and B54red but IMO you are in the danger zone for all the typical foliage related fun.

Most of my tomatoes are under cover in a hoophouse. I went this route after a complete (EB/Septoria) wipeout a few years back.

Mike

Yes I am no doubt in the "danger zone" (makes me think of the movie Top Gun lol) I was actually reading info and searching products this am and saw that Mancozeb was highly rated. I am also wondering if I shouldnt use B54's bleach spray to get a better idea of how far it has spread? It rained last night and is cloudy today so I'd like to spray something ASAP. Thanks for the help guys keep it coming!

mashermike · May 28, 2015

IMO, b54red is the man in our part of the country. Research his threads.

I'm already pruning lower leaves heavily as I've seen a few leaves that show signs of leaf mold. This seems to be my main enemy now that tomatoes are under cover.

Mike

BigVanVader · May 28, 2015

Yeah after reading B54s thread about bleach spray I think I will try it, cheaper and likely more effective. I plan to spray just the one plant to see if/how much the EB has spread. Then I can better judge what to do next.

Starlight · May 28, 2015

I would give B54's bleach method a try. Try it on just a few plants if your nervous. It does work fast. Think it was like the next day I saw the results from using his bleach spray method.

I did get the copper he suggested and I have it ready if I have any other problems, but so far I been lucky and just using the bleach spray has taken care of everything.

May 26, 2015	#2
jmsieglaff Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Southern WI Posts: 2,742	http://www.longislandhort.cornell.ed...rly_blight.htm Second picture down kind of resembles what you've got. I'd remove the leaf and treat the plant.

May 26, 2015	#3
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I would also remove all the leaves and stems near the ground so you get better air flow. Leaves touching the ground in my garden always get EB even when sprayed with a fungicide. I have had pretty good luck controlling EB with Daconil as long as the weather cooperates and there is not rain nearly every day. Bill

May 27, 2015	#4
BigVanVader Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Greenville, South Carolina Posts: 3,099	Yeah I am going to prune them heavily tomorrow, Bill what is your opinion of Serenade Fungicide? I'd prefer stay organic if at all possible.

May 27, 2015	#6
wormgirl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 245	I am reading this thread to learn, because I really have no experience with diseases. But that Cornell link describes a "round leaf spots with a characteristic target appearance" which I don't really see in your pic? The plant looks great otherwise - good luck. Keep us updated.

May 27, 2015	#9
mashermike Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: GA Posts: 55	I use a combination of Mancozeb and Copper Fungicide (Bonide) at 3 tsp per gallon for maintenance, every 7 to 14 days depending on rainfall amount. http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Chemica.../dp/B000BWZ9JO I bring on the Daconil later in the season when we start getting daily thunderstorms. I live near Athens,GA. Your a bit north of me and B54red but IMO you are in the danger zone for all the typical foliage related fun. Most of my tomatoes are under cover in a hoophouse. I went this route after a complete (EB/Septoria) wipeout a few years back. Mike

May 28, 2015	#11
mashermike Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: GA Posts: 55	IMO, b54red is the man in our part of the country. Research his threads. I'm already pruning lower leaves heavily as I've seen a few leaves that show signs of leaf mold. This seems to be my main enemy now that tomatoes are under cover. Mike

May 28, 2015	#13
Starlight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: AL Posts: 1,993	I would give B54's bleach method a try. Try it on just a few plants if your nervous. It does work fast. Think it was like the next day I saw the results from using his bleach spray method. I did get the copper he suggested and I have it ready if I have any other problems, but so far I been lucky and just using the bleach spray has taken care of everything.