Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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August 28, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manitoba,Canada
Posts: 79
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Creating my own hybrid
Hi all.next season I am going to grow some heirlooms.if I cross two heirlooms will the resulting seeds from the fruit be a hybrid ?I'm not trying to create anything to name or anything like that.just some fun for my wife and I.our own backyard hybrid so to speak.thanks.
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August 28, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,250
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/Fusion runs to all the windows, pulls down the blinds, closes the door, pulls up a chair and asks " do you want it to be a hybrid?" in a very conspiratorial tone./
Seriously, if you cross two different varieties, the resulting cross is referred to as an F1 hybrid. |
August 28, 2015 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 1,993
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Plant size, possible combinations for fruit I get, but what about when you cross a determinate with an indeterminate. Is one more dominate than the other? Do you get a semi-determinate plant then?
(Fusion... Thanks for the chuckles. : ) ) |
August 28, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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Indeterminate is dominant - the F1 (hybrid) will demonstrate the dominant genes. One of our tactics in our dwarf tomato breeding project is using a dwarf as female. You can then see if a cross took or note very quickly by test growing a few of the seeds in the hybrid fruit. If they are indeterminate, you have a cross. If dwarf, the cross didn't take (you got to the flower too late).
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Craig |
August 28, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manitoba,Canada
Posts: 79
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Would the resulting cross also be more disease resistant?is that usually the case.
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August 28, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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it's all in the genes! It is easy to predict the size and color, not easy to predict flavor or reaction to diseases. Depends on the parents and their genes, of course. But I've had hybrids of two delicious tomatoes that don't taste very good - and you could get a cross of average tomatoes be much better. That's what makes it so much fun.
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Craig |
August 28, 2015 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manitoba,Canada
Posts: 79
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Good to know,thanks
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August 28, 2015 | #8 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 4,832
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A Dominate indeterminate plant will take the determinate plant and handcuff it to the tomato cage, maybe blindfold it, and then sometimes takes a squirrel by the tail and swats the determinate plant with the squirrel.** No harm to actual squirrels or plants were harmed in this scenario, and all were consenting. Seriously, I am glad some one answered about determinate and indeterminate as I sure as heck didn't know. |
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August 28, 2015 | #9 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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I think the link I'm going to put up will answer all the questions you might want to know about how to make crosses, making selections from the initial hybrid, gene segregation and how long it takes to get a stable OP, if that's what you want.
The link is to a website that Keith Mueller has and many here know him very well and know that he got his MS degree with Dr. Randy Gardner, now retired but still breeding tomatoes and also know that he knows more about tomato genetics than most folks. Be sure to look at all the other info at his site as well. Start by clicking on CULTURE and you'll see the link to making crosses there and what follows. Keith has successfully bred many varieties that are known and liked by many. So here you go: http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/ I know it will help. Carolyn
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Carolyn |
August 29, 2015 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,919
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What Did I Do Wrong ?
My first attempt ever trying to cross (hybridize ?).
I did take a "X" bud, removed the male part (s) . And then brought a "Y" flower and shook it on the Naked female of "X". I Put a fine nylon tulle around i for a week ( prevent any other pollen getting into it ). This was done more than a month ago: STATUS UPDATE: The crossed flower bud is still there , ALIVE. but nothing in growing. What is the scoop here ? Did it take or not ? --If did not, then how come it is still there ? -- If did, how come no fruit is growing out of it ? Gardeneer |
August 29, 2015 | #11 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 1,993
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Some of the reasons could be that your pollen was still to wet to work with or had dried up. Only way I know of to see if you have nice fluffy, possible viable pollen is with a magnifying glass. Another reason, that even though you removed petals, you may not have a good enough exposed stigma. One thing I learned from Joseph with his bumblee project was that open flowers and exposed stigmas were better for trying to hybridize. Joseph's drawing of how some can look. The more closed and recessed the less chance of getting pollen out. Which is why I think some folks say the chances of cross pollination unless you have a ton of pollinators is pretty low. When I first started trying to learn how to hvbridize Daylilies, I had tags of crosses all over the place where I had hand pollenated, or so I thought. Took me two years of practice of watching pods abort or blossoms just drop tags all on the ground til I learned. Took more years after that before I was able to learn to gather pollen at the right time and start to get pods. There is another reason and some folks may argue the point, but some plants flowers just seem to not like to be bagged. They won't produce a fruit if bagged. Maybe the material irritates them or not enough air or something, but they will drag their feet about making a tomato. From reading what the professional tomato growers post here , it takes them years of practice and the biggest thing is patience. Lots of years of practice and patience with the hopes that they will be successful. For myself, I am enjoying learning what I can from folks here. Lots of mentors to learn from. I do enjoy dabbing and maybe next year I will try and make a cross or two just for the fun of it. Maybe it will work and maybe it won't. My main concern has been to learn first to try and grow the best possible healthy plants that I can. Learning to grow them healthy and disease free. TV folks have been the best for teaching how to do that. Once that is mastered well, then it might be time to try crossing just for fun. For now it is a case of learning, storing information, and being able to enjoy eating garden fresh tomatoes from their sharing knowledge. |
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August 29, 2015 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 1,993
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Opps... Forgot Joseph's drawing.
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August 29, 2015 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mojave Desert - California
Posts: 368
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"Dr. Randy Gardner"..? no offense but seriously is that a real name?
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August 29, 2015 | #14 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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I want you to know that he is one of THE most important tomato breeders everywhere at anytime, and a wonderful person on top of that. Since you don't recognize who he is here's a Google Search that will give you just a small idea of his importance in the tomato industry. Maybe his Mountain series you might have heard of and more recent ones such as MT Magic, Plum Regal, Smarty, all hybrids and he sent me a lot of seed of all three so I could make an offer here at Tville, which I did. He was one of the first, if not the first, to use some heirloom varieties in the parentages of some of his hybrids to introduce some better tastes. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...er+ncsu+tomato Carolyn
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Carolyn |
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August 29, 2015 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: England
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Last edited by maf; August 30, 2015 at 01:17 AM. Reason: Why bother helping? |
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