Producing "Stocky" Plants?

[Greatgardens]

I've never really been able to do this indoors. Outside is quite easy. And of course, determinate plants seem to produce stockier results than indeterminates. (Dwarfs and Micros are no problem at all.)

I've certainly read that if you use really big lighting arrays (now with LED's), that it can be done.

But how about with just fluorescent tubes? My starting setup now has 4 T8's so I'm in the range of 11,000 - 12,000 lumens with 6500K bulbs.

I've read that 14 to 16 hrs per day is a good length, and of course have the plants close, but not to the point of burning the leaves. And lower temps supposedly help -- 60 deg. range. I can do that in my garage.

Anything else important? Anything I've got wrong? Anyone use some type of growth retardant?

-GG

[natural]

I have never had a problem producing stocky plants indoors. My method includes the following:

I've used 4 fluorescent tubes T-8's for years. A mix of warm and cool bulbs. Keep the lights VERY close (mine almost touch the plants). Never had an issue with burned leaves. Cooler temps after germination are good. Don't over fertilize. If you have one, use a small fan on the lowest setting for a few minutes a few times day after the plants have true leaves. If no fan, gently brush the plants a few times a day.

Bill

[Cole_Robbie]

The synthetic hormones used as growth retardants are of dubious safety. California and Oregon recently banned the sale of several synthetic hormones, largely because they were making the med mj flunk pesticide screens for heavy metal contamination.

A 400 watt halide is a much more budget-friendly option for a bigger seedling light, compared to LEDs and even the more expensive fluorescent fixtures. I have a thread here about how to make a cheap light: http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=35099 The $18 bulb is the bulk of the cost.

You could also grow dwarfs. I sell a lot of dwarf plants in the spring because of their stocky appearance.

[clkeiper]

Put an oscillating fan on the table to blow over them regularly. that helps break the stem cells so they strengthen up and make stockier stems. if you don't have one brush the tomato foliage a few times a day (like you are stroking a cat or dog) gently back and forth. lots of light and try to let them dry out between watering (without wilting) to keep them from stretching, too.

[Ricky Shaw]

This was in November, 2 bulb x 4' T-8. I also have a 3 bulb x 4' T-5 and the T-8 does as well or sometimes better. What is gained in lumens is lost by having to move the plant further from T-5's because of more heat.
http://tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=35805&page=5

Originally Posted by Ricky Shaw

Paul Robeson 33rd day from seed, 8" tall, 13" span, I'm thinking these would be about ready to go. Very happy with the results for a fluorescent shop light, near nursery quality.

I'm going to do some Big Beef from a couple different sources next and run elevated nutrient levels on half and keep a log. What could be tougher than Big Beef, right?

[Worth1]

More 6500K light than the law allows and brushing them several times a day with low temperature in the sixties.
And space you have to have space.
You cant keep the plants crowded like a weed patch or dog hair thicket.
Worth

[sjamesNorway]

This thread helped me a lot:

http://206.214.211.133/~tomatovl/sho...cold+treatment

Steve

[Gardeneer]

Just look at Ricky Shaw's comment ( # 5) with a picture to demonstrate.

There are few factors but I think lighting is the most important one.
Temperatures is another. Seedling tend to stay stocky at cooler temperatures.
Another factor is over feeding and pushing.

Gardeneer

[jmsieglaff]

I suggest cool temps under the lights. My lights are in the basement which in that spot is right around 60F, I have stocky healthy plants of all types. I then move them to the cold frame about 3 weeks before plant out, which is warm by day but can get rather cool at night, especially if cool weather had been preceded by cloudy weather which doesnt let my water jugs to heat up.

[Greatgardens]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try moving some of the plants to my garage setup to see if the cooler temps improve things. I never fertilize my plants until they go into the cold frame, and that is typically mid-April. I have one thing going for me -- my large indeterminates are the last things that I plant, so they go outside pretty quick.

I certainly believe that the individual variety characteristics have a lot to do with this. Some large indeterminates are 2" tall almost overnight after they germinate, and of course, compact plants (for example Patio or Better Bush) stay small and bushy.

-GG

[gssgarden]

I agree with jmsieglaff. My best looking, and stocky-est plants go right into the garage one week after pot up. The cool temps, light around 16 hrs, keep them a nice dark green, shorter and more full than indoors. I just use florescent bulbs.

Greg