New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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February 28, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 134
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best soil for tomato seedlings?
I haven't read through all the similar looking threads, doing that now, but i figured i'd ask anyway.
What is the best soil to start tomatoes from seed? I know sometimes poor potting soil has a tendency to introduce damping off or spontaneous seedling death. So what is the best for tomatoes to insure the best survival? I've heard peat moss is best. Is this true? what are all your experiences. As some have said in other threads, the miracle grow soil is just plain awful. At least for starting seeds. And i think tomato seedlings may be more fragile than most? |
February 28, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: S.E. Wisconsin Zone 5b
Posts: 1,831
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Hi Keen,
The present champ is Fox Farms Light Warrior. Metromix 360 is also quite good and a fraction of the price of Light Warrior. Dutch
__________________
"Discretion is the better part of valor" Charles Churchill The intuitive mind is a gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. But we have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift. (paraphrased) Albert Einstein I come from a long line of sod busters, spanning back several centuries. Last edited by Dutch; February 29, 2016 at 03:22 AM. Reason: Added info & Removed broken search links |
February 28, 2016 | #3 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
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For starting seeds - look for Seed Starting (Mix). Mix has no soil in it.
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February 29, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 80
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Definitely look for seed starting mix. Super fluffy and light is key. Lets the cotyledon and stem break through easier and get some air.
I used Jiffy seed starting mix this year and was impressed with it. Once I transplant into 4" pots I used Pro Mix HP and a little compost. Its slightly heavier and holds water a little longer than the seed starting mix. Works great. |
February 29, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,931
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Any good commercial seedling mix will be fine. I like miracle grow seed starter there are other brands. Schultz makes one as well. Should be available at any box store or garden Center . You can make your own but it's not worth the hassle for a few seedlings for yourself. Few to me is less than a hundred.
KarenO |
February 29, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I just bought a bag of Light Warrior. The price went up. Now it's $25. I'm glad I can get by with just one bag a year.
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February 29, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 360
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Geez Cole, I knew it was expensive but that is crazy! For the 1 cubic foot bag? I paid $15 for mine. Then again, Hydro stores are like Starbucks here in CA so they compete as far as pricing goes. You are right though, a little goes a long way.
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February 29, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Yes, I use pro-mix in the bottom of the cells, and a little vermiculite on top.
I think worm castings are what make it work so well. I could probably make my own, but I don't have time to tinker with the mix to get it right. |
March 1, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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I wrestle with this Light Warrior decision, I've been practicing trays all winter with ProMix HP, and flawless results. My real trays are coming up soon, I'll wrestle some more on it.
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March 1, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Floyd VA
Posts: 771
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I have been using Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting mix, either by itself or blended with other mixes, for many years, probably since it was introduced. I have never had a seedling lost to damping off. I sift the potting mix through a 1/4" screen to remove larger pieces before planting.
TomNJ/VA |
March 2, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 134
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I went with this stuff, recommended by my local greenhouse. http://www.fertilomesoils.com/ultimate-potting-mix/
It's basically peat moss and perlite. It's super light and fluffy. Definitely not a "soil". |
March 2, 2016 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia Bch, VA (7b)
Posts: 1,337
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I'm using the left over pro-mix hp from last year. Always works well for me. I use it for
potting up too. |
March 3, 2016 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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I use Miracle Gro seed starting potting mix. It loads into my 72 cell tray super quickly, does not have moisure control stuff in it, which is good because I don't like moisture control mixes, the little guys don't thrive in them. Never had a case of damping off either., that is after I decided to lose the dome. (What was I thinking at 87F?)Mine are started when it's 87F outside, mid August, they are put under lights, and an overhead patio fan runs 24/7.
I sow about 600 seeds per year. |
March 3, 2016 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I'm really liking my handful of vermiculite across the very top layer, even with the Light Warrior mix. The vermiculite stays moist a long time, keeping the peat moist and not crusted over. It changes color when it starts to dry out, and I just spray it with a squirt bottle. The vermiculite also scatters a little when dry, when hit by spray, so it's easy to see that it is starting to dry out. It dries like sand and cannot crust over.
As a footnote, I am using the vermiculite that is sold as insulation. Some smaller bags sold with the potting soil come pre-treated with fertilizer. I've never used that stuff. |
March 3, 2016 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,124
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Any coir or peat "Seed starting mix" would be good. Sift if you can with 1/4" screen. I blend some extra vermiculite with the mix (something around 1:3 or 1:4 -- not critical). Then as others mention, I cover the seeds with about 3/16" of straight vermiculite. Dampen well, but not soggy. Bottom heat if you can. Typically, the surface will not dry out, but if it starts to look/feel dry, mist with a sprayer. I typically get 50% plus germination in 4 days and pretty much complete in 7-8 days. (With reasonably fresh seeds, of course.) Get them under good lights asap, and give them TLC!
-GG Last edited by Greatgardens; March 3, 2016 at 04:46 PM. |
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