Leaf Damage I.D.

SuntannedSwede · April 14, 2017

Hello,

I have noticed that a fair number of my tomato plants are showing the same signs of leaf damage, all on the lowest branches. I'm not too worried about it, seeing as the newest growth is fine, but I'm just trying to figure out what may have happened to them so I can avoid it next year.

I will post some pictures here, you will notice that they are quite large to be in solo cups, they were started way too early.

Does this look like a disease issue? I tried to do some searches here but was never really sure of what it could be. They were started in Miracle Gro Potting Mix so would the fertilizer added to the soil be enough to hurt the leaves? They are dry and brittle to the touch, and the branches that are really bad (all leaves heavily damaged) break off readily.

Thank you for your time

Gardeneer · April 14, 2017

What and how are feeding your plants ?
In zone 3, in Canada, your plants must be still inside. How they could possibly get disease ?

RayR · April 14, 2017

What fertilizer did you add to the soil? How Much?

SuntannedSwede · April 14, 2017

I haven't fed them at all yet, they have been growing in miracle-gro potting mix that has some fertilizer in it already. I had assumed that disease can strike at any time, but judging from your post that does not appear to be the case. I am 22 and have not gardened overly much

Gardeneer · April 14, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuntannedSwede

I haven't fed them at all yet, they have been growing in miracle-gro potting mix that has some fertilizer in it already. I had assumed that disease can strike at any time, but judging from your post that does not appear to be the case. I am 22 and have not gardened overly much

OH ! MG with up to 3 months fertilized in it !! (with Moisture control too ?)
Maybe it has too much N for tomatoes at this stage.
I say this because excess n can cause crisping the leaves edge.
I could be wrong.

SuntannedSwede · April 15, 2017

The bag specified to feed after 30 days, I figured there probably wasn't enough in there to burn the plant. But who knows

RayR · April 15, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

OH ! MG with up to 3 months fertilized in it !! (with Moisture control too ?)
Maybe it has too much N for tomatoes at this stage.
I say this because excess n can cause crisping the leaves edge.
I could be wrong.

I was suspecting fertilizer burn too, but since SuntannedSwede has't added any nutrients to the mix in addition to what time release fertilizer charge is in the potting soil, I don't think excess N or anything else is the problem. It very well could be the opposite, not enough nutrients as the plant used up what was in the soil. If the plant is starving, the visual clues are similar, yellowing and necrotic older growth as the plant translocates nutrients to the new growth. The new leaf growth will also be smaller.

KarenO · April 15, 2017

Trim them off. Were they wet? Looks fungal. Definitely can get mold indoors. Keep the leaves dry. Long time until plant out time in Zone 3a. They will need to be potted up a size before hardening off in mid May.
Next year sow your seeds at the end of March and they will be easier to manage for you. I think they will be ok. Always trim off any dead foliage right away. Dead or diseased leaves are no good to the plant.
Best of luck, happy to see a young person growing tomatoes from seed! Good for you. If you would like info in northern gardening please feel free to "like" or just look at my Facebook page called "Northern Gardener" all are welcome and you will find lots of goidinfo and no sales pitches there

KarenO

brownrexx · April 15, 2017

They also look like they are very pot bound in those small cups. They will probably perk right up when you get them planted outside.

SuntannedSwede · April 16, 2017

Last night I removed all of the nasty looking branches, much better now. Yes I have been buying every mid size nursery pot I can lay my hands on! Thank you guys for the help and thanks Karen for mentioning your page, it looks like a lot of helpful info.

Much appreciated!

ginger2778 · April 16, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarenO

Trim them off. Were they wet? Looks fungal. Definitely can get mold indoors. Keep the leaves dry. Long time until plant out time in Zone 3a. They will need to be potted up a size before hardening off in mid May.
Next year sow your seeds at the end of March and they will be easier to manage for you. I think they will be ok. Always trim off any dead foliage right away. Dead or diseased leaves are no good to the plant.
Best of luck, happy to see a young person growing tomatoes from seed! Good for you. If you would like info in northern gardening please feel free to "like" or just look at my Facebook page called "Northern Gardener" all are welcome and you will find lots of goidinfo and no sales pitches there

KarenO

Agreed, looks like mold to me too.

b54red · April 16, 2017

It looks very much like gray mold. If it is then you have a problem because what you see in damaged leaves is just the tip of the iceberg usually with gray mold. It definitely looks fungal so a little application of a fungicide wouldn't hurt.

If it was me they would have already gotten a diluted bleach spray but I am very reluctant to recommend that to a very inexperienced gardener. Copper fungicides will slow and sometimes stop gray mold and if used at the lowest concentration will not usually affect the new growth. Put a fan on the plants or get them in the sun as soon as possible and keep a watch out for any new gray or tan looking patches on the leaves or any leaves that look wet and droopy at the same time. Cut back on the watering also as heavy watering or waterlogged soil can increase the incidence of gray mold. If it is gray mold it will usually move up the plant steadily even after you remove the sick leaves but sometimes if you get them off early enough it won't spread.

Good luck.

Bill

SuntannedSwede · April 16, 2017

Further inspection has revealed that whatever it is has spread- the plants are looking rather naked now, heavily trimmed back, but hopefully that will be enough. I suspect that they were packed a little to closely together under the light, maybe not enough air flow. Thank you all for the help, I hope it won't be a write off this year.

PureHarvest · April 18, 2017

Do your cups have drain holes in the bottom?
They look like plants that were overwatered/sitting in saturated soil based on the water stain line on the damaged leaves.

April 14, 2017	#2
Gardeneer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7 Posts: 4,919	What and how are feeding your plants ? In zone 3, in Canada, your plants must be still inside. How they could possibly get disease ? __________________ Gardeneer Happy Gardening !

April 14, 2017	#3
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	What fertilizer did you add to the soil? How Much?

April 14, 2017	#4
SuntannedSwede Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2016 Location: Alberta, Canada (Zone 3a) Posts: 87	I haven't fed them at all yet, they have been growing in miracle-gro potting mix that has some fertilizer in it already. I had assumed that disease can strike at any time, but judging from your post that does not appear to be the case. I am 22 and have not gardened overly much

April 15, 2017	#6
SuntannedSwede Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2016 Location: Alberta, Canada (Zone 3a) Posts: 87	The bag specified to feed after 30 days, I figured there probably wasn't enough in there to burn the plant. But who knows

April 15, 2017	#8
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,931	Trim them off. Were they wet? Looks fungal. Definitely can get mold indoors. Keep the leaves dry. Long time until plant out time in Zone 3a. They will need to be potted up a size before hardening off in mid May. Next year sow your seeds at the end of March and they will be easier to manage for you. I think they will be ok. Always trim off any dead foliage right away. Dead or diseased leaves are no good to the plant. Best of luck, happy to see a young person growing tomatoes from seed! Good for you. If you would like info in northern gardening please feel free to "like" or just look at my Facebook page called "Northern Gardener" all are welcome and you will find lots of goidinfo and no sales pitches there KarenO

April 15, 2017	#9
brownrexx Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Southeastern PA Posts: 1,420	They also look like they are very pot bound in those small cups. They will probably perk right up when you get them planted outside.

April 16, 2017	#10
SuntannedSwede Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2016 Location: Alberta, Canada (Zone 3a) Posts: 87	Last night I removed all of the nasty looking branches, much better now. Yes I have been buying every mid size nursery pot I can lay my hands on! Thank you guys for the help and thanks Karen for mentioning your page, it looks like a lot of helpful info. Much appreciated!

April 16, 2017	#12
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	It looks very much like gray mold. If it is then you have a problem because what you see in damaged leaves is just the tip of the iceberg usually with gray mold. It definitely looks fungal so a little application of a fungicide wouldn't hurt. If it was me they would have already gotten a diluted bleach spray but I am very reluctant to recommend that to a very inexperienced gardener. Copper fungicides will slow and sometimes stop gray mold and if used at the lowest concentration will not usually affect the new growth. Put a fan on the plants or get them in the sun as soon as possible and keep a watch out for any new gray or tan looking patches on the leaves or any leaves that look wet and droopy at the same time. Cut back on the watering also as heavy watering or waterlogged soil can increase the incidence of gray mold. If it is gray mold it will usually move up the plant steadily even after you remove the sick leaves but sometimes if you get them off early enough it won't spread. Good luck. Bill

April 18, 2017	#14
PureHarvest Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b Posts: 1,369	Do your cups have drain holes in the bottom? They look like plants that were overwatered/sitting in saturated soil based on the water stain line on the damaged leaves.