New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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May 3, 2017 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 536
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any idea?
any idea as to why some of the first true leaves are drying up at the ends? too much water maybe?don't realy think i over watered, and yesterday just potted up to 3.5 inch pots so they got more water. just want to make sure it's not something worse. thanks----tom
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May 3, 2017 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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I don't know if it's the lighting or not, but your mix looks a bit dry to me. How are you watering?
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May 3, 2017 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 339
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This was my first year starting from seed and I tended to over water a bit and got a few plants looking like that by simply drowning the roots. Repotted and evened out the water and they recovered.
If that's not it, it could be a fertilizer issue. If you havent started it may be time to hit them with a diluted dose. |
May 3, 2017 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 536
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looks dry because i just topped off all the pots with more mix, about a half inch or so, haven't used any ferts, yet . ---tom
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May 3, 2017 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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How far along are these? After germination it takes me about two weeks to get to this stage.
The starter mix and how much light a day, is also handy info to make a diagnosis. Some people do south window only, natural takes longer. The curl and older leaf necrosis would make me think they were cold and wet at points early in the cycle. The emerging yellow hue and weak new growth I read as a lack of nutrients. |
May 3, 2017 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Could be a few possibilities so hard to pinpoint. The issue may have started the day before potting up
since you just did that yesterday. So not necessarily the cause is 'because' or after potting up. Too dry or too wet when potting up...since it is important to water after that process. Always a stress day or three after potting up. Too dry, too wet, often look similar. City water, water softeners, even well water can need balancing. (i have to by-pass my home water softener, then i have town water to deal with...) I fill jugs, then let it rest at least 24hours. Lid off. I can see the top fresh soil is starting to wick. I would hold off with watering and let them settle. If the potting up root mass was small and not pot bound, they need the time to settle in and root out. That takes much longer for the soil to dry out so it stays wet relying on evaporation...a fan will help. Don't worry about the top applied soil being dry if under soil is wet. Similar is a small seedling in a big pot stays wet too long. A big plant in a small pot drys out much faster, almost daily. Both scenarios will show the same leaf tip drying. *i have both happening now but my fault. I know the issue. Both trays have similar symptoms. One is cell tray root-bound being 'insurance' plants i don't really need. The other, smaller seedlings, was left out in a rain shower without drainage so sat in water near 36 hours. (oversight being another less needed tray) Did not notice the tray had a solid bottom as i also use trays with drainage. |
May 3, 2017 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 536
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they were planted the first week of april, they were starting to brown a week or so ago(just 5 or 6 of the plants out of a hundred, ) they were in the basement at about 60-64 degs. under lights for 16 hours, and a fan blowing on and off a few times a day. my main thing is that it isn't something that will spread to all the plants, thanks----tom
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May 3, 2017 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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I think the plants will grow through it and not hurt the others. In a few weeks they'll all look the same. I get curling on cold treat seedlings, no matter how little I water. Note the purple and curling in the pic, they grow through it in everything I've trialed. These were sown Apr 2nd, coir/peat and 30% perlite, Floranova Grow from 1st ture leaves, T5 14hours
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May 3, 2017 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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I agree it is just environmental, not a spreading disease. And just a guess.
Not clear at all from your first post that it was just a few out of 100. I have close to 400, many more than i need, and just cull the weak. Or if a singleton that i would hate to loose, i might segregate and watch for the next phase of health. Without a 'home visit' and many questions and soil and temp and light and ...etc. just a helpful guessing game like all diagnosis. Some more clear than others.... I'm outa here, |
May 4, 2017 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 70
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HELP, please. And thank you.
I am also getting some leaf curl on a few of the plants I transplanted into six-inch pots about a month ago, just on the very bottom stem. I hope they aren't diseased. And I'm puzzled why when I water from the bottom, some of the plants look very dry on top, and others appear damp. Am I over-watering or under-watering?
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May 4, 2017 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Quote:
slightly more compact soil, or some varieties that grow a bit slower have a less root mass and just drink less. Massive roots will dry out faster and take a minute or too to fill up as the roots suck it up. Variables to be expected. Some of my seedlings dry out faster and seem to be similar size so i just check individually and let them sit in an outside watering tray, then move back into my trays when they feel heavy. If one is so dry it is about to droop i will top water a bit to help saturation. Some do not like any contact with the container edge so i pinch those off. Like most potato leaf. |
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May 4, 2017 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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hovermother. I lose those first leaves sometimes, more often on the cold treats. I just trim them about an inch from the main stem, a sucker generally grows out there. Not that it matters because you'd generally bury to about this point and would get trimmed anyway for being to close to the ground. They grow through this stuff about every time, just make sure they get fed.
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May 4, 2017 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 70
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Thanks so much for the good advice! Every year I worry about something with the seedlings or the plants, and it's always the things I didn't worry about, like the hornworms last year, that get me!
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May 5, 2017 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 536
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2 for sure were german giant, and those are potato leaf, i'll have to go check some more, seemed like the ones that were doing it were the same types of tomatoes too (not all german giant types), i want to water in the worst way! lol but i won't until o know for sure they need it!---tom
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